green drake nymph
If there is a hatch more eagerly anticipated than the Green Drakes in Pennsylvania, I can’t imagine what it might be.
This bead-headed nymph pattern, tied locally for Penns creek, was the top pick for the high-water conditions of this past weekend.
I thought I might come back with stories of big browns rising to my Green Drake duns, but this was not to be. Not only was the hatch just getting under way, but I was informed by the local drake experts that nymphs and spinners are by far the most important stages to have imitations for. If you wanted a third, the emerger was it. The nearly empty nymph selections in the fly shops were a confirmation of this, as were the great variety of duns available for purchase. What follows is the pattern with one minor change that will make buying some cream-colored soft hackle unnecessary. (it was wound behind the bead for legs)
Note:This fly can be tied in both standard, and bead-headed versions.
Green Drake Nymph (Beadheaded)
Bead:5/32" gold-plated.
Thread:Tan 6/0
Tail:Pale tan/cream hackle fibers (mallard flank good substitute)
Rib:Small copper wire
Back:Thin Skin B199 Bustard Natural (about 1/16" wide)
Gills:base of a partridge feather
Abdomen:Tan rabbit fur
Wing Case:Thin Skin as before, only wider (about 1/4" wide)
Thorax:Tan rabbit fur
Fit bead onto the hook. (Pinching the barb may be necessary) Make several wraps of lead behind to secure. Bind the lead down as shown.
Tie in the tail fibers, the copper for the rib, a thin strip of the Thin Skin and the fluffy portion of the partridge feather as shown. (In that order)
Dub the abdomen forward, a little more that 1/2 way up the shank.
Lay the feather forward under tension, and tie it off. Pull the Thin Skin forward and tie off. Wind copper rib forward, being careful not to tie down any of the "gills."
Tie in the wider pc. of Think Skin, facing back. Dub a full, "chunky" thorax. Pull the Thin Skin forward and tie off behind the bead.
Using a dubbing brush, pick out some of the fibers from the sides of the abdomen to suggest legs.
The finished fly
This bead-headed nymph pattern, tied locally for Penns creek, was the top pick for the high-water conditions of this past weekend.
I thought I might come back with stories of big browns rising to my Green Drake duns, but this was not to be. Not only was the hatch just getting under way, but I was informed by the local drake experts that nymphs and spinners are by far the most important stages to have imitations for. If you wanted a third, the emerger was it. The nearly empty nymph selections in the fly shops were a confirmation of this, as were the great variety of duns available for purchase. What follows is the pattern with one minor change that will make buying some cream-colored soft hackle unnecessary. (it was wound behind the bead for legs)
Note:This fly can be tied in both standard, and bead-headed versions.
Tying The Green Drake Nymph Fly Pattern
Hook:Mustad 79580 size #8 (or size to suit)Bead:5/32" gold-plated.
Thread:Tan 6/0
Tail:Pale tan/cream hackle fibers (mallard flank good substitute)
Rib:Small copper wire
Back:Thin Skin B199 Bustard Natural (about 1/16" wide)
Gills:base of a partridge feather
Abdomen:Tan rabbit fur
Wing Case:Thin Skin as before, only wider (about 1/4" wide)
Thorax:Tan rabbit fur
Fit bead onto the hook. (Pinching the barb may be necessary) Make several wraps of lead behind to secure. Bind the lead down as shown.
Tie in the tail fibers, the copper for the rib, a thin strip of the Thin Skin and the fluffy portion of the partridge feather as shown. (In that order)
Dub the abdomen forward, a little more that 1/2 way up the shank.
Lay the feather forward under tension, and tie it off. Pull the Thin Skin forward and tie off. Wind copper rib forward, being careful not to tie down any of the "gills."
Tie in the wider pc. of Think Skin, facing back. Dub a full, "chunky" thorax. Pull the Thin Skin forward and tie off behind the bead.
Using a dubbing brush, pick out some of the fibers from the sides of the abdomen to suggest legs.
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